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A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z
ABNORMAL CRIMP
Definition: A relative term for crimp that is either too low or too high in frequency and/or amplitude or that has been put into the fibre with improper angular characteristics.
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ABRADED YARN
Definition: A filament yarn in which filaments have been cut or broken to create hairiness (fibrillation) to simulate the surface character of spun yarns. Abraded yarns are usually plied or twisted with other yarns before use.
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ABRASION MARK
Definition: An area where a fabric has been damaged by friction.
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ABRASION RESISTANCE
Definition: The ability of a fibre or fabric to withstand surface wear and rubbing.
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ABSORBANCE
Definition: The ability of a substance to transform radiant energy into a different form, usually with a resulting rise in temperature. Mathematically, absorbance is the negative ogarithm to the base 10 of transmittance.
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ABSORBENCY
Definition: The ability of one material to take up another material.
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ABSORPTION
Definition: The process of gases or liquids being taken up into the pores of a fibre, yarn, or fabric.
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ACCELERANT
Definition: A chemical used to speed up chemical or other processes. For example, accelerants are used in dyeing triacetate and polyester fabrics.
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ACETATE FIBRE
Definition: A manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is cellulose acetate (FTC definition). Acetate is manufactured by treating purified cellulose refined from cotton linters and/or wood pulp with acetic anhydride in the presence of a catalyst. The resultant product, cellulose acetate flake, is precipitated, purified, dried, and dissolved in acetone to prepare the spinning solution. After filtration, the highly viscous solution is extruded through spinnerets into a column of warm air in which the acetone is evapourated, leaving solid continuous filaments of cellulose acetate. The evapourated acetone is recovered using a solvent recovery system to prepare additional spinning solution. The cellulose acetate fibres are intermingled and wound onto a bobbin or shippable metier cheese package, ready for use without further chemical processing. In the manufacture of staple fibre, the filaments from numerous spinnerets are combined into tow form, crimped, cut to the required length, and packaged in bales. Acetate fibres are environmentally friendly.
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ACETONE RECOVERY
Definition: A process for reclaiming the acetone solvent from acetate fibre or plastics manufacture. Usually the recovery process consists of adsorption by activated carbon and re- distillation.
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ACETYL VALUE
Definition: A measure of the degree of esterification or combination of acetyl radicals with cellulose in acetate or triacetate products.
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ACETYLATION
Definition: A chemical reaction whereby the acetyl radical is introduced into a compound, as in the conversion of cellulose to cellulose acetate.
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ACID DYES
Definition: A class of dyes used on wool, other animal fibres, and some manufactured fibres. Acid dyes are seldom used on cotton or linen since this process requires a mordant. Acid dyes are widely used on nylon when high washfastness is required. In some cases, even higher washfastness can be obtained by aftertreatment with fixatives.
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ACID RECOVERY
Definition: A reclamation process in chemical processing in which acid is extracted from a raw material, by-product, or waste product. In the manufacture of cellulose acetate, acetic acid is a major by-product. Acid recovery consists of combining all wash water containing appreciable acetic acid and concentrating it to obtain glacial acetic acid.
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ACID RESISTANCE
Definition: The property of withstanding contact or treatment with any acids normally encountered in use. The type of acid should be stated (i.e. organic or inorganic).
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ACID-DYEABLE VARIANTS
Definition: Polymers modified chemically to make them receptive to acid dyes.
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ACIDIC
Definition: A term describing a material having a pH of less than 7.0 in water.
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ACRYLIC RESIN
Definition: A polymer of acrylonitrile, used in the production of manufactured fibres, as a fabric finish and as a size.
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ACTION STRETCH
Definition: A term applied to fabrics and garments that give and recover in both the lengthwise and the widthwise directions. Action stretch is ideal for tight-fitting garments such as ski pants.
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ACTIVATED CARBON
Definition: Charcoal, mostly of vegetable origin, of high adsorptive capacity. It is used for decolourizing liquids and other adsorption purifications. Usually made by carbonization and chemical activation.
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ADDITION POLYMERIZATION
Definition: A reaction yielding a polymer in which the molecular formula of the repeating unit is identical with that of the monomer. The molecular weight of a polymer so formed is a simple sum of the molecular weight of the combined monomer units. Combination occurs by means of rearrangement of the chemical bonds.
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ADDITIVE
Definition: A supplementary material combined with a base material to provide special properties. For example, pigments are used as dope additives to give colour in mass dyeing.
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ADHESION
Definition: The force that holds different materials together at their interface and resists separation into two layers.
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ADHESION PROMOTERS
Definition: Products used to treat the smooth fibre-face of closely constructed base fabric to provide a chemical bonding site for subsequent coating. This step is done because it is difficult to get good coating adhesion via strikethrough and mechanical bonding in closely constructed fabrics. Products containing the isocyanate group are the most widely used promoters.
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ADHESIVE ACTIVATED YARNS
Definition: Yarns treated by the fibre manufacturer to promote better adhesion to another material such as rubber and/or to allow easier processing.
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ADHESIVE MIGRATION
Definition: In nonwovens, the movement of adhesive together with its carrier solvent in a fabric during drying, giving it a non-uniform distribution within the web, usually increasing to the outer layers.
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ADHESIVES
Definition: In textiles, materials which cause fibres, yarns, or fabrics to stick together or to other materials.
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ADSORPTION
Definition: The attraction of gases, liquids, or solids to surface areas of textile fibres, yarns, fabrics, or any material.
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ADVANCED COMPOSITE
Definition: Polymer, resin, or other matrix-material system in which reinforcement is accomplished via high strength, high-modulus materials in continuous filament form or is discontinuous form such as staple fibres, fibrets, and in-situ dispersions.
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AESTHETICS
Definition: In textiles, properties perceived by touch and sight, such as the hand, colour, luster, drape, and texture of fabrics or garments.
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AFFINITY
Definition: Chemical attraction; the tendency of twon elements or substances to unite or combine, such as fibre and dyestuff.
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AFTERGLOW
Definition: The flameless, glowing combustion of certain solid materials that occurs after the removal of an external source of ignition or after the cessation of combustion of the material.
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AFTERTREATMENT
Definition: Any treatment done after fabric production. In dyeing, it refers to treating dyed material in ways to improve properties; in nonwovens, it refers to finishing processes carried out after a web has been formed and bonded. Examples are embossing, creping, softening, printing, and dyeing.
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AGEING
Definition: 1. Deterioration of textile or other materials caused by gradual oxidation during storage and/or exposure to light. 2. The oxidation stage of alkali-cellulose in the manufacture of viscose rayon from bleached wood pulp. 3. Originally, a process in which printed fabric was exposed to a hot, moist atmosphere. Presently, the term is applied to the treatment of printed fabric in moist steam in the absence of air. Ageing is also used for the development of certain colours in dyeing, e.g. aniline black.
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AGER
Definition: A steam chamber used for ageing printed or padded material.
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AGITATE
Definition: To stir or to mix, as in the case of a dyebath or solution.
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AIR BAG
Definition: An automatically inflating bag in front of riders in an automobile to protect them from pitching forward in an accident. End use for manufactured textile fibres.
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AIR BRUSHING
Definition: Blowing colour on a fabric or paper with a mechanized pneumatic brush.
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AIR CONDITIONING
Definition: 1. A chemical process for sealing short, fuzzy fibres into a yarn. Fabrics made from air conditioned yarns are porous. Because they allow more air circulation, these fabrics are also cooler. 2. Control of temperature and/or humidity in work or living space.
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AIR FORMING
Definition: A process in which air is used to separate and move fibres to fashion a web such as the Kroyer process for short fibres, usually of wood pulp; or the Rando-Webber process for staple-length fibres.
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AIR JET METHOD
Definition: In this method of texturing, yarn is led through the turbulent region of an air jet at a rate faster than it is drawn off on the far side of the jet. In the jet, the yarn structure is opened, loops are formed, and the structure is closed again. Some loops are locked inside and others are locked on the surface of the yarn. An example of this method is the Taslan process.
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AIR JET SPINNING
Definition: A spinning system in which yarn is made by wrapping fibres around a core stream of fibres with compressed air. In this process, the fibres are drafted to appropriate sliver size, then fed to the air jet chambers where they are twisted, first in one direction, then in the reverse direction in a second chamber. They are stabilized after each twisting operation.
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AIR PERMEABILITY
Definition: The porosity or the ease with which air passes through material. Air permeability determines such factors as the wind resistance of sailcloth, the air resistance of parachute cloth, and the efficacy of various types of air filters. It also influences the warmth or coolness of a fabric.
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AIR-LAID NONWOVENS
Definition: Fabrics made by an air-forming process (q.v.). The fibres are distributed by air currents to give a random orientation within the web and a fabric with isotropic properties.
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AIRPLANE FABRIC
Definition: A plain, tightly woven, water-repellent fabric traditionally made of mercerized cotton. During World War I, the fabric was treated with a cellulose acetate dope and used to cover the wings, tail, and fuselage of airplanes. Today, similar fabrics made from nylon or polyester/cotton blends are used in rainwear and sportswear.
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AIR-SUPPORTED ROOF
Definition: A fabric-based roofing system that is supported and held in place by air pressure.
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ALBATROSS
Definition: A soft, lightweight wool or wool blend fabric in a plain weave with a napped, fleecy surface that resembles in texture, the breast of the albatross. It is usually light-coloured and is used in negligees, infants' wear, etc.
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ALGINATE FIBRE
Definition: Fibre formed from a metallic salt (normally calcium) of alginic acid, which is a natural polymer occurring in seaweed. Alginate fibre is soluble in water.
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ALKALINE
Definition: A term used to describe a material having a pH greater than 7.0 in water.
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ALKYLATION
Definition: The introduction of an alkyl radical into an organic molecule.
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ALLOY
Definition: A solid or liquid mixture of two or more metals; or of one or more metals with certain nonmetallic elements formed by fusing the components.
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ALPACA
Definition: 1. Long, fine hair from Alpaca sheep. 2. A fabric from alpaca fibres or blends, (originally a cotton cloth with alpaca filling) that is used for dresses, coats, suits, and sweaters. It is also used as a pile lining for jackets and coats. (The term has been incorrectly used to describe a rayon fabric.)
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ALPACA STITCH
Definition: A 1 x 1 purl-links stitch that is knit so that the courses run vertically instead of horizontally as the fabric comes off the knitting machine. A garment made with an alpaca stitch is not always 100% alpaca; it can be made of other natural or manufactured fibres.
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ALPHA CELLULOSE
Definition: One of three forms of cellulose. Alpha cellulose has the highest degree of polymerization and is the chief constituent of paper pulp and chemical dissolving-grade pulp.
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ALSIMAG
Definition: Registered trademark of American Lava Corporation for ceramic materials. These materials are used in guides and discs on textile processing machines and fibre manufacturing equipment.
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ALTERNATING TWIST
Definition: A texturing procedure in which S and Z twist are alternately inserted in the yarn by means of a special heating arrangement.
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AMORPHOUS
Definition: Noncrystalline, lacking regular geometrical shape. Used to describe certain regions in polymers.
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ANGORA
Definition: 1. The hair of the Angora goat. The long, fine fibres are so smooth and soft that they must be combined with other fibres in weaving. 2. The hair of the Angora rabbit. The fine, lightweight hair is warm, and it is often blended with wool to decrease price and to obtain novelty effects in weaving. By law, the fibre must be described as Angora rabbit hair.
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ANHYDRIDE
Definition: A compound formed by abstraction of water, usually from an acid. Example: acetic anhydride, which is used in converting cellulose to cellulose acetate.
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ANILINE DYES
Definition: Dyes derived chemically from aniline or other coal tar derivatives.
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ANIMAL FIBRES
Definition: Fibres of animal origin such as wool, alpaca, camel hair, and silk.
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ANISOTROPIC
Definition: Not having the same physical properties in every direction. In the plane of a fabric, it is related to a non-random distribution of fibres.
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ANKLE FLARE
Definition: Small, discoloured thread-like veins in the ankle which indicate venous insufficiency
ANTHRAQUINONE DYES
Definition: Dyes that have anthraquinone as their base and the carbonyl group (>C=O) as the chromophore. Anthraquinone-based dyes are found in most of the synthetic dye classes.
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ANTIBACTERIAL FINISH
Definition: A treatment of a textile material to make it resistant to, or to retard growth of, bacteria.
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ANTICHLOR
Definition: A chemical, such as sodium thiosulfate, used to remove excess chlorine after bleaching.
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ANTIFELTING AGENTS
Definition: Products that prevent or minimize matting and compaction of textile materials.
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ANTIFOAMING AGENT
Definition: An additive that minimizes the formation of bubbles within or on the surface of a liquid by reducing the forces that support the bubble s structure.
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ANTIOXIDANT
Definition: A substance to retard deterioration (of fibre, fabrics, finishes, etc.) resulting from reaction with oxygen.
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ANTISOILING PROPERTIES
Definition: The properties of textile materials whereby they resist deposition of dirt and stains.
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ANTISTAINING PROPERTIES
Definition: The ability of a textile to resist the deposition of oil-or water-borne stains.
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ANTISTATIC AGENT
Definition: A reagent capable of preventing, reducing, or dissipating static electrical charges that may be produced on textile materials.
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ANTISTATIC PROPERTIES
Definition: The ability of a textile material to disperse an electrostatic charge and to prevent the build up of static electricity.
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APPLIQUE
Definition: A design made separately and then sewn on a cloth or garment.
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ARACHNE MACHINE
Definition: A machine for producing loop-bonded nonwovens. The fabric is formed by knitting a series of warp yarns through a fibre web processed on a card.
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ARAMID FIBRE
Definition: A manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming material is a long chain synthetic polyamide having at least 85% of its amide linkages attached directly to two aromatic rings (FTC definition). Aramid fibres exhibit low flammability, high strength, and high modulus. Fabrics made from aramid fibres maintain their integrity at high temperatures, such fabrics are used extensively in hot-air filters. Aramids are also found in protective clothing, ropes and cables, and tire cord.
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ARGYLE
Definition: A pattern consisting of diamond shapes of different colours knit in a fabric.
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ART LINEN
Definition: A plain-weave, softly finished fabric used either bleached or unbleached as a base fabric for needlework.
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ARTIFICIAL TURF
Definition: A manufactured carpet having the appearance of grass. Used to replace grass in sports arenas, yards, etc.
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ASBESTOS
Definition: A nonmetallic mineral fibre, which is nonflammable. The fibre is woven into fabrics and used for theater curtains and industrial uses where flame-resistant materials are needed.
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ASPECT RATIO
Definition: 1. The ratio of length to diametre of a fibre or yarn bundle. 2. In tire production, the ratio of the height of the tire to its width. 3. In a rectangular structure, the ratio of the longer dimension to the shorter.
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ASPHALT OVERLAY FABICS
Definition: Fabric systems installed between the old and new asphalt layers during pavement resurfacing. The fabric absorbs the tack coat sprayed on the old surface thus forming a permanent moisture barrier to protect the subgrade from strength loss due to water intrusion. The fabric system also helps retard reflective cracking by serving as a flexible layer to diffuse stress.
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ASTRAKHAN CLOTH
Definition: A thick knit or woven fabric with loops or curls on the face. The base yarns are usually cotton or wool and the loops are made with fibres such as mohair, wool, and certain manufactured fibres. The face simulated the pelt of the astrakhan lamb.
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ATACTIC POLYMER
Definition: A type of polymer molecule in which substituent groups or atoms are arranged randomly above and below the backbone chain of atoms, when the latter are all in the same plane (e.g., in polypropylene).
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ATMOSPHERIC CONDITIONS
Definition: In general, the relative humidity, barometric pressure, and temperature existing at a given time.
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ATTRITION MILLS
Definition: Machines for reducing materials into smaller particles by grinding down by friction. In the manufacture of acetate and triacetate fibres, equipment used in shredding pulp prior to acetylation.
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AUTOCLAVE
Definition: 1. An apparatus for carrying out certain finishing operation, such as pleating and heat setting, under pressure in a superheated steam atmosphere. 2. Apparatus for polymerizing condensation polymers such as nylon or polyester at any pressure above or below atmospheric.
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AVERAGE STIFFNESS
Definition: The ratio of change in stress to change in strain between two points on a stress-strain diagram, particularly the points of zero stress and breaking stress.
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AXIAL YARN
Definition: A system of longitudinal yarns in a triaxial braid that are inserted between bias yarns.
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AXIAL YARN
Definition: A system of longitudinal yarns in a triaxial braid that are inserted between bias yarns.
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AXMINSTER CARPET
Definition: A machine-woven carpet in which successive weft-wise rows of pile are inserted during weaving according to a predetermined arrangement of colours. There are four main types of Axminster looms: Spool, Gripper, Gripper-Spool, and Chenille.
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AZLON FIBRE
Definition: A manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming substance consists of any regenerated naturally occurring proteins (FTC definition). Azlon is not currently produced in the United States.
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AZO DYES
Definition: Dyes characterized by the presence of an azo group (-N=N-) as the chromophore. Azo dyes are found in many of the synthetic dye classes.
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